Taste Of 12th Avenue

Chef Kevin Hanney of 12th Avenue Grill, who earns raves from other chefs and loyal customers alike, makes his debut at the Taste of Honolulu’s Chefs du Jour this weekend

Wednesday - June 21, 2006
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You had me at lamb shanks,” I gush to Chef Kevin Hanney.

He smiles modestly, looks into my eyes, and continues to tantalize me.

I quiver with anticipation. “Well, tonight’s specials also include pistachio-Dijon crusted venison with mashed potatoes, or you might like our pan-seared scallops on crispy celeriac cake, with arugula and mayo-cayenne aioli,” he says.

I can’t stop salivating. Why is he taunting me? Had I not adequately expressed my undying love for his American bistro-style cooking? Why is he driven to titillate and tease my palate in this way?

Is this a chef gone wild??

I close my eyes, settle calmly into a booth at 12th Avenue Grill in Kaimuki, and catch my breath.

Chef Kevin and 12th Avenue Grill are hot in every way

Then reality hits.

Oh, it’s time for the 15th annual Taste of Honolulu, and Hanney is simply promoting his very popular restaurant in Kaimuki. He is one of 14 chefs in the exclusive Chef du Jour ranks, and he has bragging rights.

His eminence Alan Wong himself called Hanney, and invited him to cook for VIP diners who pay a premium price to sample signature dishes from Honolulu’s top chefs. That event’s already sold out.

“It’s an honor,” Hanney says. “It’s nice to be recognized by people in the business.”

This is Chef Hanney’s first appearance at Chef du Jour, one of the stellar attractions at thisweek’s three-day food-and-wine extravaganza. He will prepare Grilled Pork Loin with fresh apple chutney and potato pancakes with fresh horseradish sauce. Yum!

This will give those discriminating diners a taste of 12th Avenue Grill’s most popular entree. Grilled Pork Chops is a best-seller, along with Hanney’s original Kim Chee Steak and distinctive Macaroni-and-Cheese.

As the many regulars at Hanney’s restaurant know, the menu is just the beginning of the fine dining experience there. Daily specials noted on a chalkboard near the kitchen reflect the talent and versatility of the house chefs. Presiding in the kitchen of this 55-seat neighborhood bistro are chef-owner Hanney and sous chef Kevin Dee, formerly chef at Grand Café in Chinatown. Samantha Choy, also previously at Grand Café, is the pastry chef.

Daily specials include seasonal wild game and fish, complemented by rare wines from select vineyards of California and Europe. From port demi-glaces and house-made soups to smoked ahi nicoise salad, the fresh flavors of local produce are paired with chef finds like skate and New Zealand farmed organic king salmon. This is classic comfort food.

Hanney and his wife, Denise Luke, started 12th Avenue Grill two years ago by revamping a backstreet restaurant between Koko Head Avenue and 12th Avenue in Kaimuki. It’s a chic, retro diner reminiscent of those found in New York, San Francisco and Paris. The eatery is a bright, urban décor with pendant lighting, banquettes, and waiters in long, white aprons.

Hanney, originally from upstate New York, spent many years in California, than moved to Hawaii 15 years ago in search of new opportunities. He worked for three years at 3660 on the Rise, a stone’s throw from his present restaurant, and had a successful catering business.

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