Carving A Reputation At John Dominis

Reviving the lost art of fruit and vegetable carving is just one of the ways that Chef Jean-Pierre Maharibatcha adds flair to the venerable John Dominis restaurant

Wednesday - July 13, 2005
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By being in the trenches with them, Maharibatcha has gained the respect of the John Dominis employees, some of whom have been with the restaurant from day one.

“We all take pride in working here and maintaining this place,” says Yim. “Everything is so competitive nowadays and we need to change to keep up with the times. This is why chef Jean- Pierre is here. He has to be on top of everything.”

Take one look at the extensive dinner menu and Sunday buffet and it’s obvious that Maharibatcha is on top of everything edible.

At the Sunday brunch, which typically averages 400 to 500 patrons between 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., it’ll take you a good five minutes just to walk around and make a quick notation of what you want to devour and in what order.

From gingerbread waffles and made-to-order omelettes to a carving station with roasted suckling pig and prime rib, it’s enough to keep you full for an entire day.

A center console bathed in ice keeps oysters and island sashimi fresh and ginger chicken cold. Bite-sized pepperoncinis stuffed with crabmeat pop with flavor and eggs Benedict Florentine disappears quickly.

In addition, there are always three hot entrees of the day that Maharibatcha invents every week. Chef also isn’t opposed to letting his sous chefs experiment in the kitchen as well. If they come up with something tasty, Maharibatcha doesn’t hesitate to add it to the menu.

It’s easy to see why the motto of John Dominis, thought up by owner Andy Anderson, has always been, “You’ll never leave my house hungry.”

Once you’re seated the view from the restaurant is prime. During the day you’re offered a panoramic glimpse of Diamond Head, Waikiki and Kewalo Basin.

The glistening ocean can easily lull you into a trance if you’re not distracted by the boats moving in and out of the wharf, surfers catching waves nearby or parasailers floating about in the distance. Get a window seat and you’re also likely to see at least one of the four resident turtles who swim below, but don’t try to throw them your macadamia nut crusted sweetbread French toast. They prefer their own sea fare.

Inside the 15,000-square-foot restaurant, lava rock walls add to the island-home feel and two sets of stairs cross over the interior waterway, which is home to colorful fish and sting rays and, during peak season, is a viewing portal for the lobster of your choice.

John Dominis has always been known as a special occasion restaurant — for birthday, graduation and anniversary celebrations — but Yim says there are also regulars who come back every two or three weeks.

“That’s why it’s important that chef change the entrees to add a new dimension, so it’s not always the same old thing,” says Yim.

At dinner, Yim notes, the menu has more than enough to choose from. John Dominis, which will celebrate its 26th anniversary this November, continues to serve an average of 300 meals a night.

Chef’s favorite dinner appetizer is the California-style ahi tempura, which is stuffed with crabmeat and avocado and served with a wasabi-shoyu aioli and balsamic syrup and garnished with tobiko.

For the main course, he prefers the seafood bouillabaisse. Island shrimp, spiny lobster tail, scallops, crab legs, calamari and fresh Manila clams are simmered to perfection in a saffron tomato broth.

(By the way, when the chef dines outside of John Dominis, he says he likes to frequent Alan Wong’s, Roy’s and The Olive Tree.)

If you’re craving something raw, two years ago John Dominis added a sushi and oyster bar, open seven days a week, with four different varieties of oysters and more than 50 types of sushi.

Seafood goes hand-in-hand with the ocean, making John Dominis’waterfront locale the perfect venue for a romantic evening or a celebration with friends.

“Our chefs have changed, but our setting, our menu, has remained,” says Yim. “There are items on there that we’ve never changed because they’ve become an island favorite as well as a visitor favorite.”

Chef Maharibatcha is the newest member of a team looking to keep John Dominis at the top by serving up the best in Hawaii seafood. So come hungry. There’s a little something old and a little something new. It’s French flair done local-style.

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