Two chefs, one great year
Friday - May 16, 2008
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Contrary to pre-opening opinion, chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani have not been battling over the menu this past year. In fact, talk to either of these distinguished, passionate chefs about their first year together at Elua and all you’ll hear are positive comments.
“We enjoy working together,” says Loperfido.
In fact, rather than tempers and pots flying around the kitchen, most of the problems the two chefs have encountered have come via less-glamorous sources.
“We’re supposed to have the same number of dishes on the menu,” says Padovani, “and that can sometimes be a problem because there are so many dishes we each want to do.”
Customer complaints come loud and clear, too - but only when a favorite menu item disappears.
“Guests don’t want us to take anything off the menu,” says Padovani, a co-founder of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement and a man who’s used to rotating seasonal produce and changing his menu at least three times a year. “Our problems are always deciding what should stay and what should go.”
Someone who had no doubts that these two would create one of Honolulu’s best restaurants is co-owner Keith Kiuchi.
“The boys get along incredibly well,” says Kiuchi, “and their friendship is reflected in their food.”
While, technically, at Elua one page of the menu is Loperfido’s and the other Padovani’s, choosing from both sides is encouraged. Depending on the season, one page might showcase rustic Italian - with hearty dishes like stuffed pork loin, escargots with Hamakua mushrooms or grilled lamb chops - while the other features dishes like hearts of palm salad, tender moi or pan-fried John Dory.
This month, Elua celebrates its first-year anniversary with a four-night series of wine dinners and events.
The celebration begins Wednesday, May 21, with a Raptor Ridge wine dinner and continues Thursday with a private fundraising event at the Sub Zero Wolf showroom, where the chefs will battle Iron Chef-style to see who can create a perfect pairing between their food and Raptor Ridge wines.
Friday and Saturday, a “best of the best” menu will be offered at the restaurant, featuring the chefs’ most popular dishes including Risotto con Funghi Misti (Arborio rice with seasonal mushrooms and white truffle oil), Crispy Confit of Muscovy Duck Leg (on a bed of lentil ragout) and Costolette di Agnello (grilled Australian lamb chops with Kalamata olives, feta cheese, tomatoes, Maui onions and a red wine sauce.)
Wine pairings (mostly hand-crafted and sourced by Loperfido in Italy and California) are offered in both 2-ounce and 4-ounce portions.
Wine lovers might want to reserve seats at the Wednesday night wine dinner, where there’s an opportunity to taste the acclaimed boutique wines from husband-and-wife winemaking team Annie and Scott Shull. The $75-per-person four-course dinner includes grilled eggplant rollatini, risotto with baby artichokes and pancetta, and a duet of roasted squab and pan-fried Hudson Valley foie gras. Three wines are included, and a Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir flight (2004 and 2006 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir and 2004 and 2006 Reserve Pinot) costs an additional $20.
And while Elua is keeping both chefs busy, they still make time to indulge their other passions: Padovani spends time each week making chocolates with his brother Pierre for their gourmet chocolate stores, and Loperfido often can be found behind the counter of his Italian restaurant, Pasta Basta, at Restaurant Row.
Two chefs, four businesses and one year later.
“It’s a lot of pressure,” says Donato, “but it’s challenging and fun.”
Elua Calendar Of Events: May 21: Raptor Ridge Wine Dinner at Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar, $75 per person
May 22 : “Iron Chef ” Wine Pairing Fundraiser for Kapiolani Medical Center at the Sub Zero Wolf Showroom
May 23 and 24: Best of the Best five-course menu at Elua Restaurant
For more details and to make reservations:
Elua Restaurant and Wine Bar 1341 Kapiolani Blvd. 955-3582
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