Sarento’s: absolutely tops

Jo McGarry
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Friday - May 30, 2008
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Sarento's tender Ossobuco with Saffron Risotto
Sarento’s tender Ossobuco with Saffron Risotto

With all of the construction happening at the Ilikai - what is it about yellow tape that seems so forbidding? - maybe you too assumed that Sarento’s, the restaurant with arguably the best view in Waikiki, was shuttered too.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

Or further from a fantastic meal.

“I think people forget that the ‘Top of I’ is still here,” says Jarrod Jones, Sarento’s personable young general manager who started here as a busboy a decade ago.

To make sure that people don’t forget, and as a lure past some of that yellow tape, Sarento’s is offering a rather stunning dining deal: An early evening special (5:30 to 6:30 p.m. reservation) that offers more choices than you’d expect for just $30.

Appetizers include Caesar Alla Sarento’s, Chopped Salad Alla Gabriella (greens, Maui onions, cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, baby artichokes, tiger shrimp and avocado), Calamari with tomato-caper sauce and lemon aioli, New Zealand Mussels (cashew crusted with lemon, garlic and bruschetta), and Bruschetta Rustica (with grilled eggplant, diced Roma tomatoes, garlic and basil on a Tuscan bread with feta cheese).


Main course items include Linguine & Clams in a white wine sauce, Spaghetti and Filet Mignon Meatballs in a Pomodoro sauce,Penne Calabrese (housemade sausage, roasted eggplant, Roma tomatoes, broccolini and garlic in a white wine/feta sauce), Chicken Marsala with Shiitake mushrooms, Veal Carpricciosa (Milanese veal cutlet with mozzarella, Roma tomatoes, arugula and truffle vinaigrette), Tagliatele Ai Fungi (hand-cut pasta with mixed mushrooms and Prosciutto, and a catch of the day.

Dessert choices are Vanilla Bean Gelato, Seasonal Sorbets and Profiteroles (gelato in a puff pastry with dark chocolate sauce and almonds).

If there’s a better deal in this town for 30 bucks, let us know, please.

It’s an even better deal considering that legendary pianist Paul Conrad is playing on a baby grand. His Phantom of the Opera medley was especially memorable.

As we discovered last weekend, while The Ilikai is receiving a needed refurbishing, Sarento’s - and the glass elevator that hints at the 360-degree views soon to come at the top - is the same gem I recalled from, well, too long ago. Whether it’s a romantic dinner for two or a family meal (a children’s menu is also available), an evening at Sarento’s is a special occasion. And if it weren’t for Aaron Placourakis’ other, nearby restaurant,Aaron’s,the service at Sarento’s would be unmatched in Waikiki.

We began the evening with the popular Lobster Ravioli ($33), which is actually lobster, crab and shrimp in housemade pasta topped with chunk lobster and a lobster-reduction sauce in truffle butter.As G.M. Jones says,“It’s lobster inside, cooked in and on top of more lobster. A previous chef took it off the menu, but people kept asking for it, so it’s back on the menu to stay.”

Wise move.


This, as well as the Salad Alla Gabriella (named for Placourakis’ daughter, and which is essentially the same as the Maui Wowie Salad at Aaron’s), we washed down with a perfectly paired Italian Tomaresca Puglia Chardonnay ($9), nicely fruity and acidic, quite unlike some of those ponderous,oaky California Chards.

For main courses,we shared Pan-roasted Opakapaka with crab meat and Cremini mushrooms in a lemon butter sauce with water-cress salad (market price) and Ossobuco with saffron risotto ($34).

The opakapaka reminded me of why it is my favorite island fish, and the preparation shows off the Big O’s capacity to carry complex flavors.

The ossobuco fell off the bone, and was just right with a rich brown sauce and the saffron risotto. This is a “big taste"item, and went wonderfully paired with Carneros Buena Vista Pinot Noir ($10), with a nose of ripe strawberries, jam and spicy vanilla.

With room rapidly running out, we still went for dessert, and marveled at the classic table-side preparation of blue-gold flaming Banana Fosters Crème Brulet and Strawberry Fosters - decadently and rather artistically topped

(along with the white tablecloth) with swirls of dark chocolate sauce.

Consider us content.

By the way, if you can find metered parking behind the Ilikai, go for it, but it’s much simpler to valet park at the hotel’s main entrance on Ala Moana Boulevard.

P.S.: When the next-door Hilton Hawaiian Village shoots fireworks on Fridays evening, Sarento’s offers an up-close “eye-level"view of the colorful explosions. Big “wow!” factor.

 

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