Flavors of southern India
Friday - April 25, 2008
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While most of us in Hawaii have diverse backgrounds, Jiva Sagaran has a broader culinary heritage to draw on than most.
“I grew up in Waianae,” says the owner of India Cafe,“but my father is from India and my mom is from Michigan. They met in Geneva and ended up in Hawaii.”
Sagaran grew up eating Indian food when his dad cooked and meat and potato dishes when his mom cooked.
“My grandparents migrated to Penang, which has a real food culture,” he says. “The food there is typically one-third Indian, one-third Malaysian and one third-Chinese. All of those influences were in our meals.”
Things took an interesting turn when Jiva met his wife, Shalisa.
“My wife is from Boston; her mother is Portuguese and her father is Indian from Trinidad,“he says.
So has all of this translated into fusion cuisine? Thankfully, no. Jiva’s food at India Café reflects the southern Indian part of his heritage, and the flavors and techniques are, for the most part, traditional.
“We don’t use coconut milk or dairy in our food,“he explains,“and we stick to traditional methods of baking bread.”
The bread, a crepe-like flatbread, is made from lentils and rice.
“Not many Indian restaurants make this bread because it requires a lot of time,” says Jiva.
At India Café, there are easy options for those looking for an interesting way to add more vegetables and protein to their diet, and for those looking to pursue vegetarian choices.
“The food is pretty healthy,“says Jiva of the dishes that include Okra Vegetable Curry ($8.95), Coconut
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Cabbage ($7.95) and Chana Masala ($8.95). But there’s plenty for meat lovers on the menu, too, including a fairly spicy Lamb Sambal ($9.95 half ), which showcases extremely tender lamb in a spicy chili sauce, and an excellent chicken curry.
The Kilohana Square restaurant is small and has an appealing, unpretentious feel. Indian silks grace the walls and serve as colorful tablecloths, and intoxicating flavors fill the small dining room as you wait to eat.
Appetizers include Samosas ($3.95), pastry turnovers filled with potatoes and served with a sweet chili sauce and papadums ($1.95). Do order the Dosai slices ($2.75), the traditional South Indian rice pancakes - they make great wraps for entrees and are perfect for dipping.
Relishes and side dishes are an important part of every Indian meal. They’re inexpensive (about $2.50 each), and they each bring a different taste profile to the table. Raita (a yogurt and cucumber dish) adds a cooling element, while mint and fruit chutneys add a sweet and sometimes sour (via hot lime pickle) note.
Entrees include lamb, chicken and fish, all in a variety of South Indian-style sauces, and there are seafood dishes that include Shrimp Curry ($9.95) and Fish Curry ($9.95) with boneless mahi mahi.
Undoubtedly the best thing to try if it’s your first visit is Raja’s Thali Plate ($16.95). With a choice of entrees and a vegetable dish, the platter also comes with rice, dosai, vegetable sambar, chutney and papadums.
And if you’re hesitant to try Indian food because you think it may be hot and spicy, India Café should change your mind. Most dishes come with an extremely mild spice base, and you can ask for the heat level to be raised as you like.
Except for the spicy eggplant. “It comes with a warning,” admits Jiva.“It is really hot, and we warn people - even if they’re Indian - we tell them it’s ridiculously spicy.”
India Café
1016 Kapahulu Ave.
Kilohana Square
737-4600
www.indiacafehawaii.com
Open for dinner nightly from 5 to 9 p.m. and for lunch on Friday,
Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
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